Friday, April 3

Klingsor's Enchanted Garden

That's Wagner on Ravello's Villa Rufolo. Such a beautiful piece of a beautiful little town up the Amalfi coast...

Thursday took the SETI bus from Sorrento to Amalfi under a gorgeous sun. We ate lunch in the Taverna degli Apostoli, a cool little place actually part of the town's 1000 year old Duomo. Free glass of wine upon entry as we were, apparently, the very first customers of the season. While drinking the wine (referred to as the "legs of Columbus") we began to wonder why it seemed to be taking so long for the waiter to bring the menu, only to discover that it changes every day, and our man was in the process of writing one out for us. Wonderful meal, and then on up to kill a few hours in picturesque Ravello. Villa Cimbrone extraordinary as expected, the hyperbole of its "Avenue of Immensity" and "Terrace of Infinity" almost forgiven, as the sea stretches out so majestically.

The Amalfi road was built in 1840, and the amount of buildings constructed right into the face of the steep cliffs is a truly staggering undertaking. The confidence with which the bus drivers navigate the impossibly narrow turns remains quite ridiculous. Pictures anon should tell the story, and already looking forward to returning for a more in-depth tour through Positano at the weekend.

Planning a lazy day in Sorrento before catching the boat to Naples to meet up with Stransky and Lindsay at Piazza Bellini, the so-called intellectual core of the city, hilariously. Already walked through the historic center for a few hours upon arrival from Rome, but not thus far overly impressed. It comes highly praised by no less than Goethe, who stated:

"Say, tell or paint what you will, but here all expectations are exceeded. This shore, the gulfs, the coves... May all those who lose their minds in Naples be forgiven!"

Looking forward to a second look. And cracking the bottle of newly purchased Limoncello with Blair on the Naples-Sorrento train afterward, of course.

Ah, the first true Friday of this trip, and again the sun is shining and the plans are well set. In Ravello, I saw a poster for its 2003 Festival with the tagline: "The Pleasure of Creative Idleness". Indeed. Seems I have found a motto for the days and months ahead. The first of many.

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